![]() That's what got me more into riding fishes nowadays and messing around with singlefins and stuff. I have to do deep tissue trigger point therapy and remedial massage plus stretching and boring kickboard laps in the pool and just choose surf conditions carefully and don't surf when it's really heavy. My back still gives me grief and now and then, the pain comes and goes, some day's I can't surf because of the pain and relapse of muscle spasm but other day's its ok. How has this experience changed your approach to your life, your career, and your art…?īW: A very heavy thing to go through and the rehab was sooo long, it taught me not to take things for granted that's for sure, I had nearly a year where I was just allowed to go walking and I would just walk laps of the beach here and see good waves breaking wondering if I would be able to surf them again. ![]() ![]() You can see the short film at Back to top Im very sorry to hear about your spine injury, but equally impressed that you've gone onto accomplishing so much in its wake. It came out really good and it works well too. The thing was so beat and I was keen to try shaping so I shaped a new version of that board and painted it and glassed it. Didn't you just shape your first board? A singlefin?īW: The Warlock! I rode an old 60s singlefin in this short film a friend made 'the warlock from age' its the full s-deck egg tripped out shape. I like the singlefin contests that are happening now, they are pretty fun. I did like doing the Quiksilver Airshow events, all you have to think about is going down the line as fast as you can and boosting. For me competing in surfing took the fun out of it and made it stressful so I don't miss it. I was into handrails so the park events were what I was into. The cross over events were much more fun when the snow events were slopestyle in a park, I had a lot if injuries from racing boardercross. Talk to us about your time competing in surfing and snowboarding…īW: First thing that comes to mind is all the travelling and excess baggage, I got to visit some great places and have a lot of good friends from doing the contest thing. I still regularly surf with my dad and borrow the odd singlefin or logger. ![]() My dad is a surfer so my parents started taking me to the ocean when I was baby. What were your first experiences of surfing and the ocean?īW: My earliest memory of standing on a surfboard was when I was really young and paddling one of my fathers long pintail single fins inside a beach river-mouth and standing up on its momentum. After travelling I now live at Stanwell Park beach on the edge of the Royal National Park NSW. Tell us about your background, where are you from, where are you now?īW: I grew up around the coastal areas of the mid north coast and south coast of New South Wales. He is the author of The Conquest of Ainu Lands: Ecology and Culture in Japanese Expansion, 1590-1800 A Concise History of Japan The Lost Wolves of Japan and Toxic Archipelago: A History of Industrial Disease in Japan.Bret, thanks for doing this interview, and thanks also for featuring on COTW…īW: Thanks for having me, its nice to be in the club. Walker is Regents Professor of History at Montana State University. He finds that family legacies shape us both physically and symbolically, forming the root of our identity and values, and he urges us to renew our interest in the past or risk misunderstanding ourselves and the world around us.īrett L. In his own search, Walker soon realizes that this broader scope is more valuable than a strictly medical family history. In this deeply personal narrative, he constructs a history of his body to understand his diagnosis with a serious immunological disorder, weaving together his dying grandfather's sneaking a cigarette in a shed on the family's Montana farm, blood fractionation experiments in Europe during World War II, and nineteenth-century cholera outbreaks that ravaged small American towns as his ancestors were making their way west.Ī Family History of Illness is a gritty historical memoir that examines the body's immune system and microbial composition as well as the biological and cultural origins of memory and history, offering a startling, fresh way to view the role of history in understanding our physical selves. While in the ICU with a near-fatal case of pneumonia, Brett Walker was asked, "Do you have a family history of illness?"-a standard and deceptively simple question that for Walker, a professional historian, took on additional meaning and spurred him to investigate his family's medical past.
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